![]() ![]() The foreground in Mike’s example has water with some waves on it, and after changing the Stack Mode to Mean, the water has smoothed out much of the waves that were visible in each of the individual frames. ![]() He then goes to Layers > Smart Objects > Stack Mode > Mean to blend them. Mike sets these five or so frames back to visible and then copies them to the bottom of his layers stack. These frames remove noise from his foreground. ![]() Now to remove all the plane trails, Mike first changed the Blend Mode back to “Normal.” He then hides all the Layers except for five or ten of them. After Photoshop processes for a while, it generates a star trail photo. Then he uses the Lighten Mode to blend those images. Mike next converts some of the images into a Photoshop Smart Object. Once Mike finds a sequence of images with hardly any clouds in them, he selects the photos in Lightroom and then imports the images to Photoshop as Layers. (He suggests you also try Comet Mode and see how you like it.) After processing, you can see something that’s not so cool – the clouds in the base images interfere with the stacking. He then drops all the images into StarStaX and processes them with the Gap-Filling Blending Mode. Next, Mike jumps into Adobe Lightroom and takes a look at the photos that he shot earlier in this tutorial. He then shares the settings he used for exposure as well as his intervalometer. He then talks about why that’s not the best approach with digital cameras. Mike starts his tutorial discussing how people used to shoot star trails in the old days using a multiple minute-long, single exposure. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |